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Koniec wiosny i początek lata to dla nas, dziennikarzy winiarskich, moment radosnego przebudzenia z jesienno-zimowej drzemki pod znakiem win czerwonych.

Nie dlatego, byśmy sami zimą nie sięgali po białe i różowe – wszelkie jednak tzw. konsumenckie badania wskazują, że w tych ponurych sezonach nasi rodacy z rzadka tylko ich używają, twardo stojąc przy czerwonych. Może globalne ocieplenie zmieni z czasem nasze nawyki – póki co zaś cieszmy się z ciepłych i długich wieczorów spędzanych z kieliszkiem różowego wina…

Michał Bardel

Fot. ArchiwumPaweł Gąsiorek

Alma Joven Cabernet Franc Rosé 2013
Bodegas Toscanini, Urugwaj

Najciekawszy w różowych winach jest ich kolor. Słowo różowe średnio odpowiada tutaj prawdzie, bowiem paleta kolorów jest olbrzymia. Od prawie białych lekko „trąconych” kilkoma kroplami czerwonego po niemal czerwone. A pomiędzy tymi ekstremami cała feeria barw. Toscanini Alma Joven ma piękną barwę. To róż przechodzący w mandarynkę i dziką różę. Już samo oglądanie go w kieliszku sprawia wielką przyjemność. W nosie aromaty wina z głogu, aronii, chłodniku z truskawek. W ustach łagodne, kwasowość spokojna, odczuwalna, ale już stonowana upływającym czasem. Wino na wiosenne i letnie popołudnie, w ogrodzie czy na tarasie. Równie dobre samo, jak i do lekkich wiosennych dań: sałat, warzywnych makaronów. Ze względu na kolor dobre wino na prezent dla ukochanej.

Dorota Romanowska

Fot. ArchiwumPinot Grigio Col Doré Casa Defra Rosé 2014
Cielo – Casa Defrà
IGT Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie, Włochy

Lekkość, rześkość i wytrawność to cechy powszechnie przypisywane winom powstałym z pinot grigio – szczepu, którego epicentrum upraw i produkcji znajduje się w północnych Włoszech. Dokładnie z tych stron pochodzi wybrane przeze mnie wino o subtelnej, czystej, lekko łososiowej barwie i dość wyraźnym aromacie porzeczek przemieszanych z agrestem i kwiatami. Choć mądre źródła mówią, że wina z tej odmiany powinny pachnieć cytrusami i zielonym jabłkiem, w moim odczuciu to właśnie porzeczki i agrest grają w Col Doré Rosé pierwsze skrzypce. W większości przypadków pinot grigio posiadają także dość niską kwasowość, ale tu jest ona wprost idealna – czyni wino świeżym i lekkim, pozostawiającym długi rześki posmak; jednym słowem wymarzony wprost aperitif. Idealnie nadaje się też do sączenia solo w prawdziwie letni czyli upalny dzień w ogrodzie, na balkonie czy też w kawiarnianym ogródku. Przy odpowiedniej aurze wszędzie będzie smakować wyśmienicie!

Wojciech Giebuta

De Neuville Rosé d’Anjou 2013
Ackerman
Fot. ArchiwumAOC Rosé d’Anjou
Francja

Czy królowa Jadwiga lubiła wino? Z pewnością tak, choć trudno powiedzieć jakie. Z ksiąg rachunkowych wawelskiej kuchni wiemy, że często sięgała po krakowskie obwarzanki, o winie jednak nie ma słowa. Można się jednak domyślać, że gdy tylko miała okazję, chętnie wybierała to z rodzinnych Węgier oraz z Andegawenii, z której wywodził się jej ród. Andegawenia czyli Anjou to region położony w środkowym biegu Loary, gdzie powstaje większość różowych win, z których słynie okolica. Właśnie na potrzeby lekko wytrawnych różowych win z odmian grolleau oraz cabernet franc stworzono apelację Rosé d’Anjou. Klasyczny malinowo-poziomkowy bukiet docenią zarówno koneserzy, jak i goście, którzy jeszcze nie przekonali się do win wytrawnych.
Wino – jak większość różowych – doskonale będzie nadawało się jako aperitif w upalne czerwcowe popołudnie. Możemy podać je również do krakowskiego obwarzanka posmarowanego kozim twarożkiem i posypanego pikantnym czajeńskim pieprzem.

Artur Boruta

Regent Rosé 2013
Pałac Mierzęcin
Polska

Fot. ArchiwumAleż się ucieszyłem, gdy wybór padł na wina różowe i mogłem z czystym sumieniem wybrać do zestawu wino z Polski. Nareszcie! Patriotyzm to jedno, ale styl i jakość wina to główne argumenty dla tego wyboru.
Ciekawe i dobre wina polskie będą pojawiać się coraz częściej. Nie mam wątpliwości, że będzie przybywać twórców, pasjonatów, hobbystów i zawodowców, którzy w naszym (zmieniającym się) klimacie, zaczną wytwarzać świetne butikowe wina. Pytanie kto będzie pierwszy i kto stworzy najbardziej wartościowe procesy ochrony upraw i winifikacji. Tutaj nie wystarczy już tylko posiadać okresowo dobre warunki do wzrostu winorośli i dużo zamiłowania do winnego grona. Kluczem do sukcesu na rynku będzie przede wszystkim utrzymanie win na dobrym i równym (!), charakterystycznym dla twórcy, poziomie.
Pałac Mierzęcin staje na głowie, by wszystkie te systemy stworzyć, inwestując w sprzęt, ludzi, infrastrukturę... By stać się numerem jeden i zawsze utrzymywać – rzekłbym – niechwiejną na przestrzeni czasu (celowo używam tego zwrotu) jakość swoich win.Wino różowe to jednak wyzwanie. Zrobione przez Piotra Stopczyńskiego Regent Rosé w 2013 roku bardziej, w mojej opinii, przypomina clairet niż klasyczne wino różowe. I bardzo dobrze. Wino posiada swoją wyraźną strukturę, silne owocowe aromaty truskawek, rozgniecionych czereśni, delikatną goryczkę i przyzwoitą kwasowość.
Ciekawy jestem, jaki kolor wina przyszedłby do głowy degustującemu to wino z zamkniętymi oczami? Ale tę zabawę pozostawiam już indywidualnej potrzebie każdego z Państwa.

Justyna Korn-Suchocka

Casa de Varzi Rosado 2014
Fot. ArchiwumBodegas Carrau
Urugwaj

Z Urugwaju do Chin (nie wdając się w szczegóły) jest równie daleko, jak znad La Platy do środkowej Europy, a wszystkie te miejsca łączy... wino. I to wino ze szczepu mało znanego, schowanego w cieniu rodziców, licznych braci i kuzynów. Muscat de hamburg, bo o nim tu mowa, w odróżnieniu od większości swojej wielkiej muskatowej rodziny, rodzi czerwone grona. Wbrew nazwie powstał w połowie XIX wieku w Wielkiej Brytanii, lubi umiarkowanie chłodne klimaty, w których daje lekko wybarwione, wytrawne wina. Chińczycy krzyżują go z azjatycką Vitis amurensis by otrzymać odporną na niskie temperatury winorośl.
A co robi w Urugwaju? Wspiera merlota w udanym, różowym małżeństwie. Może się poczuć lekko zwiedziony muskatową obietnicą z etykiety ktoś, kto kocha wina pachnące kwiatem i rodzynkiem. Hamburska odmiana jest bowiem mniej aromatyczna niż klasyczne muskaty, ale dzięki temu nie przytłacza merlotowych malin i truskawek – jedynie wzbogaca różano-cytrynową nutą. Podobnie rzecz ma się ze smakiem tego półwytrawnego wina stworzonego wręcz do picia solo, w upalne popołudnie na tarasie albo w hamaku. Czerwone owoce wiodą prym, dopuszczając do drugiego głosu orzeźwiające grejpfruty i mandarynki. Bez zbędnej słodyczy i landrynkowych ozdobników sprawdzi się także Casa de Varzi Rosado jako towarzysz orientalnej kuchni. I marzeń o równie egzotycznych podróżach – na przykład z Urugwaju do Chin.

Michał Bardel

Casal da Coelheira Rosé 2014
Quinta do Casal da Coelheira
DOC Tejo, Portugalia

Fot. ArchiwumRóż, jak wiadomo, odcieni ma co niemiara, a mnie ostatnio coraz częściej zachwycają te skrajne. Już to – gdy na talerzu mule lub sałatki – szukam tych blado-prowansalskich, ledwie dotkniętych czerwienią, łososiowych lub oko martwej kuropatwy przypominających, już to, gdy ochota przychodzi na kawałek mięsa, a upał sprzyja czemuś lżejszemu i dalece chłodniejszemu niż wino czerwone, sięgam po ciemny, bardzo ciemny róż, właściwie już czerwony, choć czerwień to łagodna i całkiem przezroczysta. A że coraz trudniej na tym łez padole o porządne bordoskie clairet, tej najtęższej odmiany wina różowego szukam gdzie indziej: na przykład w portugalskim Tejo. Różowe Casal da Coelheira ma to coś: odświeżającą lekkość przy wyrazistych nutach niemal czerwonego wina. Jest tu zapewne co nieco truskawek i malin, ale i całkiem sporo wiśni i lekko kwiatowej perfumy. Zrobiono to wino z odmian nie byle jakich: oto flagowy szczep Portugalii touriga nacional w duecie z syrahem, dającym zazwyczaj rosé muskularne i bardzo charakterne. Da radę z rybą i sałatką, ale o wiele lepiej wypróbować je do lżejszych mięs z rusztu, ot choćby szaszłyczków…

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