Wino nie powinno mieć więcej niż 12 procent alkoholu

Michał Bardel20.01.2017 15:03

Nigdy nie byłem liczbowym orłem – w olimpiadzie szkolnej z matematyki zająłem co prawda, o ile pamiętam, zaszczytne 2 miejsce, ale tylko dlatego, że silnie podobała mi się pani od rachunków. Do dziś, także w sprawach winnych, staram się nie skupiać na liczbach.

Także jeśli chodzi o procentowy udział czystego alkoholu etylowego w ulubionych winach.

Są jednak tacy, dla których owe dwie cyferki przed znakiem „%” oznaczają konsumenckie być albo nie być, czy ściślej: kupić czy nie kupić. I – co bardzo szczególne – owi liczbowi skrupulanci dzielą się na dwie biegunowo różne grupy. Jedni uważać będą – niczym pewien starszy pan, który odwiedzał dekady temu mój sklep z winem, stukając laską w szklane witryny, za którymi kryły się butelki – że prawdziwe wino nie może mieć więcej niż 12 procent mocy, albowiem wówczas etanol przytłoczy je aromatycznie i stłamsi. Przedstawiciele drugiej opcji tymczasem na widok wina o piętnastoprocentowej zawartości alkoholu przestają się w ogóle interesować nazwą, krajem pochodzenia i producentem. Rys. Andrzej Zarębaw ciemno.

Można by pomyśleć, że skrupulanctwo pierwszej grupy bardziej jest jednak szlachetne i rozumne, broni bowiem tego, co w winie najcenniejsze i najdelikatniejsze, podczas gdy przedstawiciele opcji „tęższej” najwyraźniej przedkładają efekty poniewierające nad estetyczne. Mnie jednakże obydwie te postawy równie są dalekie. Procentowa moc wina to ostatnia informacja, jaką potrzebuję wyczytać z etykiety – zaś prawdę powiedziawszy, w 9 na 10 przypadków w ogóle jej nie sprawdzam. Dość mi wiedzieć, że wino alkohol posiada. Nie ma bowiem większego nieporozumienia jak wino odalkoholizowane.

Wśród różnych mód bowiem współczesnego świata także i tę spotkać można. Widywałem nie raz i nie dwa potężne i drogie urządzenia przeznaczone do zmniejszania ilości etanolu w gotowych winach, tak by nie odebrać im walorów zapachowo-smakowych. To, co stanowiło efekt tej diabolicznej procedury, z winem widziało się z bardzo daleka. I nie chodzi już tylko o to, że częstym sposobem dealkoholizacji wina jest mniej lub bardziej agresywne jego podgrzewanie (alkohol paruje już w temperaturze nieco powyżej 78°C), a wina przegrzane (przegotowane, pasteryzowane itp.) zbliżają się zawsze niebezpiecznie w stronę kompotu owocowego. Nie chodzi o sam sposób odbierania winu alkoholu, ale o coś o wiele bardziej fundamentalnego – o jego brak.

Alkohol jest bowiem naturalną i nieodzowną częścią tego estetycznego fenomenu, jakim jest wino. Dzięki niemu – między innymi oczywiście – aromaty wina tak silnie oddziaływają na nasze zmysły. Kompot z winogron też ma w końcu jakiś zapach, ale gdzie mu tam pod względem złożoności i intensywności do bukietów winnych! Jeśli zatem wino ma pachnieć i smakować (a smak to w dużej mierze także przecież zapach), musi mieć pod dostatkiem alkoholu i kwita!

Cała sztuka polega jednak na tym, by obecność alkoholu w winie odpowiednio ukryć. Mówiąc najkrócej: by uczynić go nośnikiem innych aromatów, ale by jego samego (w sensie wszystkim dobrze znanego wódczanego smrodku) nie dało się w winie wyczuć. O wiele ważniejsze od procentowej ilości alkoholu w winie jest nasze subiektywne odczucie jego obecności. Źle, jeśli jest go za mało, i wino wpada w nuty kompotowe – i również źle, jeśli obok owocowych aromatów czujemy w winie nutę spirytusową. Owszem, w winach posiadających moc 15,5–16% o wiele trudniej ukryć sam etanol, o wiele częściej grzeszą one przesadną alkoholowością, ale to wcale nie znaczy, że z zasady muszą one być gorsze od win o niskich rejestrach mocy. Bywają zatem wina zaledwie 12-procentowe, pozostawiające na podniebieniu nadmierne uczucie gorąca, i takie, co mimo swoich 16 procent potrafią etanol odpowiednio wkomponować w strukturę aromatyczną wina. Wielbiciele weneckiego amarone coś o tym wiedzą.

Wracając na koniec do rzeczonych matematycznych skrupulantów – spór między dwoma ich stronnictwami wkrótce rozstrzygnie sama przyroda. Ocieplenie klimatu już podbiło co najmniej o punkt procentowy przeciętną moc wina w świecie, a będzie jeszcze gorzej. Machnijmy zatem ręką na ustawowe zapisy na etykietach – ufajmy nosom i kubkom smakowym. I – w miarę możliwości – trzymajmy się jak najdalej od win niskoalkoholowych.

Czas Wina nr 83

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